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American Duchess

Monday, October 23, 2017

Edwardian, Shoes, Victorian

Please Vote! New Victorian/Edwardian Pumps in *Colors*

  Lauren Stowell      Monday, October 23, 2017      2 comments Shoes from J. Ferry, 1885-1890. The Met, 2009.300.1579a,b  Ladies, for the first time *ever* we are able to offer a range of colors in one of our new styles for next Spring.

We've been working on perfecting a late Victorian/Edwardian evening shoe, c. 1880-1910. We've heard your cries for low-heeled evening shoes with options, so - thanks to Lauren's trip to China - our new "Amelie" pumps will come in 6 colors, each with our exclusive 1.75 inch French heel, and clip-on double bows (oh yes!)

...but we need your help. Besides black, the obvious choice, which other colors should we do? Here's a nifty poll to help us out. Please choose your top six (6) favorite colors. Thank you!


"Amelie" Pumps will be coming out around the beginning of next year, 2018. We are so excited to finally be able to offer this historic footwear staple in a range of colors. Thank you for your help, lovelies! Share: Read More

Thursday, October 19, 2017

Podcast, Vintage

Podcast Episode 12: Chelsea G. Summers and the Birth of Vintage

  Abby      Thursday, October 19, 2017      No comments
Hey Y'all!

Abby here and I am so excited to share with you all the latest episode of Fashion History with American Duchess . We're really excited about these next couple of episodes because they feature some of the amazing authors from the online media website Racked, a fashion & shopping page that is a part of Vox Media.

Racked has published some fantastic articles relating to fashion history - particularly within the realm of vintage clothing - and Lauren and I were able to sit down with some of the authors of our favorite pieces to pick their brains about their topics.

First up is Chelsea G. Summers, we sat down with her to discuss her article and research on the birth of vintage clothing and its growing trendiness during the 20th century. It was fascinating to listen to Chelsea's experience buying and wearing vintage, and how it has evolved and changed over the years - even to what some of us consider vintage (or not...)

So if you're a fan of vintage clothing this is definitely up your alley!

**Note: This episode was recorded over a Skype call and while we did our best to control the sound volume and quality, there were some connectivity issues at times. This is just part of the fun that is recording over the internet! :) **


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Tuesday, October 3, 2017

1790s, 1790s Robe a la Turque, 18th Century

The Robe a la Turque - Part 3 - Shalwar Puffy Pants

  Lauren Stowell      Tuesday, October 03, 2017      9 comments
Before I forget about all the trials and tribulations (and sometimes fun) I had making my Turkish costume for Costume College 2017, I better tell you about one of the most enjoyable parts - the puffy pants!

Since Guimard's lower legs are not visible in the painting, I decided to do puffy pants - harem pants as you might know them, or "shalwar" as properly termed - based on these images:

Costume for Idamé, in the Orphan of China. (1779).jpg
Costume of the Sultana used in the Comédie Française in the Plays where there is a role for this Costume. (1779) Sticking with the European-interpretation-of-Turkish-dress angle, I patterned, cut, and constructed the pants as I thought an 18th century mantua-maker might. My version certainly aren't like real shalwar at all, but I was very happy with the result.

My scribble-notes when planning how to make these pants. I ended up making them a bit long (because I didn't realize the cuff actually fastens under the knee, not at the ankle), so cut a good foot off the bottom before pleating.
I cut two very basic, super-wide legs (front and back) with a very low crotch point. The waist I pleated just like a petticoat, leaving it split on the sides, which worked just fine. The hems of each leg were roughly pleated into a a cuff band that snapped around my ankle.

Pleating and binding the top like an 18th century petticoat. I still planned to wear the standard Western underpinnings, a shift and stays, but the shalwar negated the other usual underpinnings. I could not wear an underpetticoat or false bum, which gave the finished costume a long, loose, somewhat "deflated" look compared to the popular silhouette of 1790.

Swish, swish, swish - such good scroop with these pants. Not so good on the "so you have to go to the bathroom" part, though!
I left enough length in the legs to create a nice "bulb" when gathered into the ankle bands, which are barely visible. They snapped on the sides. As I would later find out, it was also ridiculously hard to go to the bathroom! Word to anyone making shalwar to be worn under a gown...do some kind of snaps or ties or *something* in the crotch!



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Friday, September 29, 2017

1790s, 18th Century, Events, Photography, Regency

Jane Austen Festival in Pictures

  Lauren Stowell      Friday, September 29, 2017      1 comment
How remiss am I in sharing photos, proper photos, from the Jane Austen Festival. So remiss! In fact, when I opened up this draft post to see how far I'd gotten, this is all I had...

"Photos and shit"
Oh my.
So let's remedy that.
This year at Jane Austen Festival in Louisville, Kentucky, I had the unique opportunity to photograph not one, not two, not three, but four gorgeous women in full 1790s attire.
This was *the year* of 1790s (and we hope the trend continues!). Here are my favorite shots of Abby, Nicole, Maggie, and Lauren M.
Left to Right: Abby, Nicole, Robert The Barbary Corsair, Lauren M. and Maggie
Nicole's shako was incredible.
Lauren a la Marvelleuise in beautiful 1790s
Pass the Punch - we enjoyed an excellent dinner with The Acasta, which got friendlier and friendlier as the punch bowl made its rounds.
Abby and Maggie, the whimple sisters, rocking the late 1790s trend for exotically wrapped turbans
Nicole wore a stunning embroidered batiste gown with her version of the Agreeable Tyrant spencer in burnt orange silk trimmed with olive green buttons and passimenterie.
Abby's gown was a gold-printed Indian cotton trimmed in gold bullion fringe with a gathered front and green silk sash pinned with Wedgewood jewelry.
The narrow diamond back of Maggie's 1790s gown was expertly fitted. This is a tricky style to accomplish!
Maggie's gown was made of a subtly red and blue dotted cotton with a full back and train. The front was high-necked and gathered, worn over a chemisette. The whole ensemble was tied together with a dark blue silk ribbon sash. The train on Nicole's gown was long and luscious, a hallmark of 1790s fashion for both day and evening.
Details - accessories make the 1790s interesting. The same Agreeable Tyrant spencer made and worn two different ways for completely different looks - Nicole and Lauren M.
Same pattern, two exquisite and quite different results. This pattern came from the book An Agreeable Tyrant. Gorgeous Lauren M in her round gown with enormous '90s cap and her Agreeable Tyrant spencer in black silk trimmed in silver.
Token gentleman - The Doctor, HMS Acasta
It was hot and sticky but we still had fun!
...but we don't take ourselves TOO seriously, now. ;-)  We had such a great time, even if we were a little heat drunk.

Practical info for the pretties seen in this post:

* Abby's gown, sash, and turban were put together with the methods in "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking."
* "An Agreeable Tyrant" is available on the DAR website here.
* The shoes seen in these shots are "Pemberley" Regency Slippers and "Dunmore" 18th Century Shoes available from AmericanDuchess.com. The new "Dashwood" slippers are also available there.
* Learn more about the Jane Austen Festival in Kentucky here.
* Learn more about HMS Acasta here.



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Monday, September 18, 2017

18th Century, Pattern Hacks, The Book

The American Duchess Guide - Previews!

  Lauren Stowell      Monday, September 18, 2017      6 comments
Lovelies, we are so excited to finally be able to give you all a sneak preview and some behind-the-scenes info on our upcoming book, The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking.

We want to thank everyone for supporting our effort so far - thanks to you, The American Duchess Guide has reached #1 Bestseller on Amazon in the "Sewing" category. Woohoo!!


This video is the first in a series of "chats" about the book - motivation, inspiration, intention, and later on some more in-depth info about each of the gowns we chose and how the projects went.
The book is currently available to pre-order on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and other major booksellers. It's available through Amazon in Europe, Australia, Canada, and other countries, so you don't need to purchase from the USA.
Make this gown, step-by step! We *will* be selling signed copies on AmericanDuchess.com on November 21st, if you'd like your book to have a bit of Lauren&Abby chicken-scratch on the opening pages. ;-) We will also be attending events and book signings but we don't have settled dates on any of those yet. We'll keep you posted! Share: Read More

Friday, September 15, 2017

Miscellany, Victorian

The American Duchesses: A Tale of Two Consuelos

  Abby      Friday, September 15, 2017      2 comments Hello Lovelies!

Welcome to part two of our stories of  real life American Duchesses, rich stateside socialites who married into the  British aristocracy. Today we have the Tale of Two Consuelos.

The first is Consuelo Yznaga, was born in New York to a Cuban father & American mother. Through her father there were close connections to Spanish aristocracy and a great deal of wealth. She married  George Montagu, Viscount Mandeville, who later became the Duke of Manchester. Thus, Consuelo became the Duchess of Manchester.  Consuelo was also one of the real "Buccaneers". She passed away in 1909.
Consuelo Yznaga, Duchess of Manchester, 1907, John Singer Sargent The Manchester Tiara, which Consuelo commissioned Cartier to make, is in the Victoria and Albert collection and it's  amazing .   


Manchester Tiara, 1903, Cartier, V&A As it turns out the Duchess of Manchester was super besties with Alva Smith Vanderbilt who is actually the mother to the second Consuelo. And yes, she was named after the Duchess of Manchester, who was the godmother to Consuelo Vanderbilt.

Consuelo Vanderbilt was born March 2, 1877 in New York, heiress to an immense railroad fortune. Her mother was apparently very controlling and manipulative, pressuring her to marry Charles Spencer-Churchill, the 9th Duke of Marlborough, by locking her in her room and pretending to be on her death bed. I feel bad for Consuelo - supposedly she was already secretly engaged to another man, but her mother won that battle of wills and she married the Duke in 1895. It wasn't too long before it was marriage in name only, and eventually they had the marriage annulled. Consuelo re-married for love to Jacques Balsan, a French textile manufacturing heir.  

Consuelo Vanderbilt, Duchess of Marlborough, 1903, Paul César Helleu Even though her marriage to the Duke of Marlborough failed, Consuelo still kept close connections with the Spencer-Churchill family, especially Winston Churchill. Consuelo relocated to Florida around 1932, and spent the last part of her life living in the United States. She passed away in 1964. 


Consuelo Vanderbilt, c. 1890 (?)

Conseulo Vanderbilt wrote about her life and experiences in her own book "Glitter and the Gold: The American Duchess, in Her Own Words."

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American Duchess

Monday, October 23, 2017

Edwardian, Shoes, Victorian

Please Vote! New Victorian/Edwardian Pumps in *Colors*

  Lauren Stowell      Monday, October 23, 2017      2 comments Shoes from J. Ferry, 1885-1890. The Met, 2009.300.1579a,b  Ladies, for the first time *ever* we are able to offer a range of colors in one of our new styles for next Spring.

We've been working on perfecting a late Victorian/Edwardian evening shoe, c. 1880-1910. We've heard your cries for low-heeled evening shoes with options, so - thanks to Lauren's trip to China - our new "Amelie" pumps will come in 6 colors, each with our exclusive 1.75 inch French heel, and clip-on double bows (oh yes!)

...but we need your help. Besides black, the obvious choice, which other colors should we do? Here's a nifty poll to help us out. Please choose your top six (6) favorite colors. Thank you!


"Amelie" Pumps will be coming out around the beginning of next year, 2018. We are so excited to finally be able to offer this historic footwear staple in a range of colors. Thank you for your help, lovelies! Share: Read More

Thursday, October 19, 2017

Podcast, Vintage

Podcast Episode 12: Chelsea G. Summers and the Birth of Vintage

  Abby      Thursday, October 19, 2017      No comments
Hey Y'all!

Abby here and I am so excited to share with you all the latest episode of Fashion History with American Duchess . We're really excited about these next couple of episodes because they feature some of the amazing authors from the online media website Racked, a fashion & shopping page that is a part of Vox Media.

Racked has published some fantastic articles relating to fashion history - particularly within the realm of vintage clothing - and Lauren and I were able to sit down with some of the authors of our favorite pieces to pick their brains about their topics.

First up is Chelsea G. Summers, we sat down with her to discuss her article and research on the birth of vintage clothing and its growing trendiness during the 20th century. It was fascinating to listen to Chelsea's experience buying and wearing vintage, and how it has evolved and changed over the years - even to what some of us consider vintage (or not...)

So if you're a fan of vintage clothing this is definitely up your alley!

**Note: This episode was recorded over a Skype call and while we did our best to control the sound volume and quality, there were some connectivity issues at times. This is just part of the fun that is recording over the internet! :) **


Share: Read More

Tuesday, October 3, 2017

1790s, 1790s Robe a la Turque, 18th Century

The Robe a la Turque - Part 3 - Shalwar Puffy Pants

  Lauren Stowell      Tuesday, October 03, 2017      9 comments
Before I forget about all the trials and tribulations (and sometimes fun) I had making my Turkish costume for Costume College 2017, I better tell you about one of the most enjoyable parts - the puffy pants!

Since Guimard's lower legs are not visible in the painting, I decided to do puffy pants - harem pants as y