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Cartier (jeweler)

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Société Cartier
Type
Subsidiary
Industry
  • Jewellery manufacturing
  • Watchmaking
  • Retailing
Founded Paris, France
(1847; 170 years ago (1847))
Founder Louis-François Cartier
Headquarters Paris, France
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Cyrille Vigneron, CEO
Revenue $ 6.1 billion (2016)[1]
Parent Richemont
Website cartier.com

Société Cartier (/ˈkɑːrti./; French: [kaʁtje]) is a French luxury goods conglomerate company which designs, manufactures, distributes, and sells jewellery and watches.

Founded in Paris, France, in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the company remained under family control until 1964. The company maintains its headquarters in Paris, although it is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Compagnie Financière Richemont SA.

Cartier is well known for its jewelry and wristwatches, including the "Bestiary" (best illustrated by the Panthère brooch of the 1940s created for Wallis Simpson), the diamond necklace created for Bhupinder Singh the Maharaja of Patiala, and the "Santos" wristwatch of 1904.[citation needed]

Cartier has a long history of sales to royalty and celebrities. [2] For example, Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, has been seen wearing the Cartier Ballon Bleu timepiece.[3] King Edward VII of England referred to Cartier as "the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers."[4] For his coronation in 1902, Edward VII ordered 27 tiaras and issued a royal warrant to Cartier in 1904.[5][6] Similar warrants soon followed from the courts of Spain, Portugal, Russia, Siam, Greece, Serbia, Belgium, Romania, Egypt, Albania, Monaco, and the House of Orleans.[7]

Contents

  • 1 History
    • 1.1 Family ownership
    • 1.2 Post-family ownership
  • 2 Retail stores
  • 3 Products
    • 3.1 Jewellery
      • 3.1.1 By Collections
      • 3.1.2 Categories
    • 3.2 Watches
      • 3.2.1 Men's Watches
      • 3.2.2 Women's Watches
    • 3.3 Fashion accessories
      • 3.3.1 Leather goods
      • 3.3.2 Eyewear
      • 3.3.3 Fine objects
    • 3.4 Perfumes
  • 4 Timeline
  • 5 List of Managing Directors
  • 6 Website blocking
  • 7 See also
  • 8 References
  • 9 Further reading
  • 10 External links

History[edit]

Family ownership[edit]

Louis-François Cartier founded Cartier in Paris in 1847 when he took over the workshop of his master.[8] In 1874, Louis-François' son Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the brand name worldwide.

Cartier Santos - steel/gold from 1988

In 1904, the Brazilian pioneer aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Cartier designed a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel. This watch was liked by not only Santos-Dumont but also many other customers. Thus the "Santos" was born. This was Cartier's first men's wristwatch.[9]

Mackay emerald and diamond necklace, 168 carats Muzo, Colombia, 1931.

Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, like the mystery clocks[10] (a type of clock with a transparent dial and so named because its mechanism is hidden[11]), fashionable wristwatches and exotic orientalist Art Deco designs, including the colorful "Tutti Frutti" jewels.

In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger,[12] who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches. By this time, Cartier had branches in London, New York and St. Petersburg and was quickly becoming one of the most successful watch companies in the world. The Baignoire and Tortue models (both of which are still in production today) were introduced in 1912, followed by the Tank model in 1917. This, designed by Louis Cartier, was inspired from the newly introduced tanks on the Western Front. This line too has survived, with over thirty varieties made since.

In the early 1920s, Cartier formed a joint company with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to produce movements solely for Cartier. Thus was the European watch and clock company born, although Cartier continued to use movements from other makers. Cartier watches can be found with movements from Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado and LeCoultre. It was also during this period that Cartier began adding its own reference numbers to the watches it sold, usually by stamping a four-digit code on the underside of a lug. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street.

Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to 653 Fifth Avenue,[citation needed] the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant (son of railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant) and designed by architect C.P.H. Gilbert. Cartier acquired the mansion from the Plants in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million.[13]

Among the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau, who joined Louis Cartier in 1909 for the rest of his life, and Jeanne Toussaint, who was Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933. After the death of Pierre in 1964, Jean-Jacques Cartier (Jacques's son), Claude Cartier (Louis's son), and Marionne Claudelle (Pierre's daughter) — who respectively headed the Cartier affiliates in London, New York and Paris — sold the businesses.

Post-family ownership[edit]

Bismarck sapphire necklace (1935), now at National Museum of Natural History US.

In 1972, a group of investors led by Joseph Kanoui bought Cartier Paris. President Robert Hocq, who created the phrase "Les Must de Cartier" (a staff member is said to have said "Cartier, It's a must!"[8] meaning something one simply must have) with Alain Dominique Perrin, General Director, began introducing new products. In 1974 and 1976 respectively, the group repurchased Cartier London and Cartier New York. In 1979, the Cartier interests were combined, "Cartier Monde" uniting and controlling Cartier Paris, London and New York.

Cartier merged in 1981 with "Les Must de Cartier", and Perrin was appointed Chairman of Cartier SAA and Cartier International. The next year, Micheline Kanoui assumed responsibility for jewellery design and launched her first collection "Nouvelle Joaillerie". In 1984, Perrin founded the "Fondation Cartier pour l'art Contemporain" (the Cartier Foundation of Contemporary Art) to bring Cartier into the twenty-first century, by forming an association with living artists.

In 1986, the French Ministry for Culture appointed Perrin head of the "Mission sur le mécénat d'entreprise" (a commission to study business patronage of the arts). Two years later, Cartier acquired a majority holding in Piaget and Baume & Mercier. In 1989/1990 the Musée du Petit Palais staged the first major exhibition of the Cartier collection, "l'Art de Cartier".[citation needed][14]

Perrin founded an international committee in 1991, Comité International de la Haute Horlogerie, to organise its first salon, held on 15 April 1991. This has become an annual meeting place in Geneva for professionals. The next year, the second great exhibition of "l'Art de Cartier" was held at the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. In 1993, the "Vendôme Luxury Group" was formed as an umbrella company to combine Cartier, dunhill, Montblanc, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Karl Lagerfeld, Chloé, Sulka, Hackett, Seeger.[15]

In 1994, the Cartier Foundation moved to the Rive Gauche and opened a headquarters in a building designed for it by Jean Nouvel. Following the accidental death of Robert Hocq in December of that year, his sister, Brigitte Hocq, became chairman. Joseph Kanoui became vice president of Cartier Monde. The next year, a major exhibition of the Cartier Antique Collection was held in Asia. In 1996, the Lausanne Hermitage Foundation in Switzerland hosted the exhibition "Splendours of the Jewellery", presenting a hundred and fifty years of products by Cartier.[16] As of 2012, Cartier is owned, through Richemont, by the South African Rupert family and 24-year-old who is the granddaughter of Pierre Cartier, Elle Pagels.

Retail stores[edit]

Champs-Élysées store in Paris
Cartier is in the former Morton F. Plant House on Fifth Avenue in New York
Cartier in Kuala Lumpur City Centre
Cartier on Mexico City's Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Cartier operates more than 200 stores in 125 countries, with three Temples (Historical Maison) worldwide:

  • Paris - 13, Rue de la Paix
  • London - 175-177 New Bond Street
  • New York - 653 Fifth Avenue

In September 2008, Cartier opened its first flagship store in Seoul, South Korea, named Cartier Maison located in Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, with its facade inspired by Korean Bojagi wrapping cloth. Helmed by Managing Director Philippe Galtie, he said at the time of opening that it was the seventh largest in the world.[17][18] In 2015, Cartier opened a shop in the newly developed River Oaks District,[19] in Houston.[20]

Products[edit]

Jewellery[edit]

By Collections[edit]

  • Amulette de Cartier
  • LOVE
  • Panthère de Cartier
  • Paris Nouvelle Vague
  • Trinity de Cartier
  • Juste un Clou
  • Diamants Legers de Cartier
  • Diamond Collection
  • Trinity Ruban solitaire
  • Cartier Destinée solitaire
  • Ballerine solitaire
  • Caresse d'orchidées par Cart
  • C de Cartier
  • Entrelaces
  • Cartier Fauna and Flora
  • Evasions Joaillières
  • Links and Chains
  • Hearts and Symbols
  • Pearl Jewellery
  • Colourful Jewellery
  • Agrafe
  • Le Baiser du Dragon
  • Cactus
  • Lanière

Categories[edit]

  • Rings
  • Bracelets
  • Necklaces
  • Earrings
  • Brooches
  • Charms

Watches[edit]

Cartier Panthere lady's 2 tone watch.

Cartier has developed many different watches. The classic collections are:

Men's Watches[edit]

  • Ballon Bleu de Cartier
  • Tank
  • Calibre de Cartier
  • Clé de Cartier
  • Drive de Cartier
  • Santos de Cartier
  • Rotonde de Cartier
  • Ronde Croisiere de Cartier
  • Ronde Louis Cartier
  • Ronde Solo de Cartier
  • Tortue
  • Pasha de Cartier

Women's Watches[edit]

  • Tank
  • Ballon Bleu de Cartier
  • Clé de Cartier
  • Baignoire
  • Santos de Cartier
  • Creative Jeweled Watches
  • Crash
  • Tortue
  • Ronde Louis Cartier
  • Ronde Solo de Cartier
  • Panthere de Cartier

Fashion accessories[edit]

Leather goods[edit]

  • Hand Bags
  • Women's Small Leather Goods
  • Men's Small Leather Goods
  • Women's Belts
  • Men's Belts
  • Agenda Refills

Eyewear[edit]

  • Precious Eyewear
  • Women's Sunglasses
  • Men's Sunglasses
  • Women's Opticals
  • Men's Opticals

Fine objects[edit]

  • Writing Instruments
  • Cufflinks
  • Scarves
  • Lighters
  • Key Rings
  • Money Clips
  • Home Collection
  • Stationery
  • Gold & Silver Folding Spoons

Perfumes[edit]

  • Must de Cartier
  • Dragon
  • Pasha
  • Baiser Volé
  • Panthère de Cartier
  • Déclaration
  • Roadster/ Roadster sport

Timeline[edit]

  • 1847 - Louis-François Cartier inherited the jewellery workshop at 29, Rue Montorgueil in Paris from his master Adolphe Picard, founding the house of Cartier.[citation needed]
  • 1856 - Princess Mathilde, niece of Napoleon I and cousin to Emperor Napoleon III, made her first purchase from Cartier.[citation needed]
  • 1859 - Cartier moved the workshop to 9, Boulevard des Italiens. Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III and regent of France, became a Cartier client.[citation needed]
  • 1888 - Creation of the first ladies jewellery bracelet-watch.[citation needed]
  • 1899 - Cartier moved into the its present-day headquarters at 13, Rue de la Paix.[citation needed]
  • 1900 - Introduction of various styles of neoclassical jewellery mounted in platinum, which became exceptionally popular amongst aristocrats.[citation needed]
  • 1902 - Cartier opened a new shop at 4 New Burlington Street in London, on the same day as the coronation of King Edward VII.[citation needed]
  • 1904 - Cartier received its first appointment as official purveyor to King Edward VII of the United Kingdom. His consort, Queen Alexandra bought a necklace designed with Indian influence. Later that year, Cartier received another appointment as the purveyor for King Alfronso XIII of Spain.[21] The first Santos watch was created by Louis Cartier, as he designed a watch to be worn on wrist with a leather strap for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator.[citation needed]
  • 1905 - Appointment as the official purveyor for King Carlos I of Portugal.[citation needed]
  • 1906 - The creation of first jewellery design to incorporate the Art Deco style,[citation needed] characterised by its abstract and geometric variations. The first Tonneau wristwatch was also created this year.[citation needed]
  • 1907 - Cartier held its first exhibition and sale in Saint Petersburg, at the Grand Hotel Europe. Shortly after, it was appointed as official purveyor to Tsar Nicholas II of Russia.[22]
  • 1908 - Appointment as official purveyor to King Chulalongkorn of Siam.[citation needed]
  • 1909 - Second shop in London was opened at 175-176 New Bond Street in London. Pierre Cartier later opened a second shop in New York as well, at 712 Fifth Avenue.[citation needed] A folding buckle for wristwatches was patented in this year.
  • 1910 - Pierre Cartier sold the blue Hope Diamond to an American customer, Evalyn Walsh McLean.[citation needed]
  • 1911 - Official launch of the Santos de Cartier wristwatch, inspired by the 1904 model. Jacques Cartier travelled to India to attend the Delhi Durbar, and to the Persian Gulf.[citation needed]
  • 1912 - Creation of the first mystery clock: Model A. A delegation from the City of Paris presented Tsar Nicholas II with the Cartier Imperial Egg (now at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York). The first baguette-cut diamonds made an appearance. Launch of the Tortue watch. The first comet clocks were created.[citation needed]
  • 1913 - Appointment as official purveyor to King Peter I of Serbia.[citation needed]
  • 1914 - The bezel on a lady's round wrist watch was paved with diamonds and onyx to create the first "panther" motif. Appointment as official purveyor to Duke Philippe of Orleans.[citation needed]
  • 1917 - The New York store moved to 653 Fifth Avenue, previously the home of Morton F. Plant, which Pierre Cartier bought in exchange for a double-strand necklace of 55 and 73 natural pearls. First studies conducted for the Tank watch.[citation needed]
  • 1918 - Creation of batons for Field-Marshals Foch and Pétain.
  • 1919 - Launch of the Tank watch. Establishment, in New York, of the European Watch & Clock Co. Inc. Appointment as official purveyor to King Albert I of Belgium.
  • 1921 - Appointment as official purveyor to the Prince of Wales, future King Edward VIII who, on abdicating in 1936, became the Duke of Windsor. Creation of the Tank cintrée watch.
  • 1922 - Creation of the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Chinoise watches.
  • 1923 - Creation of the first portico mystery clock, crowned with a statuette called Billiken.
  • 1924 - Creation of the three-band ring and bracelet combining gold in three colours, known in the United States as Trinity. Jean Cocteau adopted the ring and made it fashionable among Parisian society.[citation needed]
  • 1924 - Queen Marie of Romania wears a Cartier tiara created to resemble the Russian kokoshnik for her portrait painted by Philip de László.
  • 1925 - Cartier made a memorable appearance[citation needed] at the International Exhibition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts in Paris, in the Pavillon de l'Élégance. Death of Alfred Cartier.
  • 1926 - Creation of the Baguette watch. Cartier jewellery in its red box appeared on the Broadway stage in Anita Loos' play Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
  • 1928 - Marjorie Merriweather Post bought from Cartier in London earrings once worn by Queen Marie-Antoinette of France. Creation of the Tortue single pushpiece chronograph watch.
  • 1929 - Appointment as official purveyor to King Fouad I of Egypt and participation in the Exhibition of French Arts in Cairo. Creation of the Tank à guichets watch.
  • 1931 - Creation of the mystery pocket watch.
  • 1932 - Creation of the Tank basculante watch.
  • 1933 - Jeanne Toussaint was made head of Cartier Fine Jewellery. Cartier filed a patent for the "invisible mount", a stone-setting technique in which the metal of the mount disappears to show only the stones.
  • 1935 - Cartier opened in Monte Carlo.
  • 1936 - Creation of the Tank asymétrique watch.
  • 1938 - Cartier opened in Cannes. One of the smallest wristwatches in the world, by Cartier, was given to Princess Elizabeth of the United Kingdom.
  • 1939 - Appointment as official purveyor to King Zog I of Albania.
  • 1940 - General de Gaulle founded the Free France movement in London, for which he received Cartier's steadfast support. Some of his speeches were written in the office which Jacques Cartier placed at the general's disposal.[citation needed]
  • 1942 - Creation of the "Caged Bird" brooch as a symbol of the Occupation. In 1944, Cartier created the "Freed Bird" to celebrate the Liberation of France.
  • 1945 - Pierre Cartier was now the head of Cartier Paris. Claude, Louis' son, took the helm of Cartier New York while Jean-Jacques Cartier, Jacques' son, was the head of Cartier London.
  • 1947 - Cartier celebrated its centennial.
  • 1949 - The Duke and Duchess of Windsor bought a platinum panther brooch on a 152.35-carat (30.470 g) Kashmir cabochon sapphire in Paris. Cartier would buy the brooch for its own collection in 1987.
  • 1950 - Creation of a watch in the form of a ship's wheel. The Hollywood actress Gloria Swanson appeared in Sunset Boulevard wearing the two diamond and rock crystal bracelets that she had bought from Cartier in 1930.
  • 1953 - Marilyn Monroe sang "Cartier!" in the film version of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
  • 1954 - Creation for the Duchess of Windsor of a lorgnette in yellow gold, black enamel and emeralds representing a tiger.
  • 1955 - Creation of Jean Cocteau's sword for his election to the Académie française, to the artist's own design.
  • 1956 - For her marriage to Prince Rainier, Princess Grace received numerous gifts of jewellery by Cartier including her engagement ring, set with a 12-carat (2.4 g) emerald-cut diamond.
  • 1957 - Barbara Hutton bought a tiger brooch in yellow gold, onyx and jonquil diamonds.
  • 1967 - Creation of new watches in London including the Crashwatch.
  • 1968 - The Mexican actress María Félix commissioned Cartier to make a diamond necklace in the form of a serpent. Cartier granted Robert Hocq a licence to create an oval lighter with a retractable wheel under the Cartier name. Creation of the Maxi Oval watch.
  • 1969 - Robert Kenmore, the chairman of Cartier's parent company, acquired a 69.42-carat (13.884 g) pear-shaped diamond which it sold to Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. The Cartier Diamond was thus renamed the Taylor-Burton Diamond. Opening of Cartier in Geneva. Creation of the Love bracelet.
  • 1970 - Opening of Cartier in Hong Kong.
  • 1971 - Opening of Cartier in Munich.
  • 1972 - Cartier Paris was taken over by a group of investors led by Joseph Kanoui.
  • 1973 - Creation of Les Must de Cartier by Robert Hocq with Alain-Dominique Perrin.
  • 1974 - Launch of the first leather collection in burgundy. Cartier loaned a large part of its Art Deco jewellery collection for the filming of The Great Gatsby.
  • 1975 - Cartier celebrated the centenary anniversary of the birth of Louis Cartier. Opening in Monte Carlo of the first major retrospective, "Louis Cartier: Art Deco Masterpieces".
  • 1976 - First collection of Les Must de Cartier vermeil watches. Retrospective in New York titled "Retrospective Louis Cartier: One Hundred and One Years of the Jeweller’s Art". Creation of the first oval pen. The Cartier name appears on a "designer" edition of Ford's Lincoln Continental Mark IV for 1976, and would continue on through the 2003 model year.
  • 1978 - Creation of the Santos de Cartier watch with a gold and steel bracelet. Creation of the first Cartier scarf collection.
  • 1979 - Cartier Paris, Cartier London and Cartier New York were united as a single legal entity.
  • 1981 - Launch of the Must de Cartier and Santos de Cartier perfumes.
  • 1982 - Launch of the first New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and stones.
  • 1983 - Creation of the Collection Ancienne Cartier (later the Cartier Collection) to record and illustrate how the jeweller’s art and its history have evolved. Creation of the Panthère de Cartier watch.
  • 1984 - Launch of the second New Jewellery collection on the theme of gold and pearls. Creation of the Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain in Jouy-en-Josas. Cartier became partner to the International Polo Tournament in Windsor, United Kingdom.
  • 1985 - Launch of the Pasha de Cartier watch.
  • 1986 - Launch of the third New Jewellery collection on the theme of the panther.
  • 1987 - Launch of the Panthère de Cartier perfume. Creation of Les Maisons de Cartier tableware (porcelain, crystal and silver).
  • 1988 - Launch of the fourth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Egypt.
  • 1989 - Launch of the Tank Américaine watch. The Art of Cartier, the first major retrospective in Paris, was held at the Petit Palais.
  • 1991 - Establishment of the Comité International de la Haute Horlogerie (CIHH). The first Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was held in Geneva.
  • 1992 - "The Art of Cartier" exhibition was held at the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg.
  • 1994 - The Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain moved to the Left Bank in Paris to a building on Boulevard Raspail, the work of the architect Jean Nouvel.
  • 1995 - Creation of the Pasha C watch in steel. Launch of the So Pretty de Cartier perfume. "The Art of Cartier, the World of French Jewellery Art" exhibition was held at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum in Japan.
  • 1996 - Creation of the Tank Française watch collection. Launch of the sixth New Jewellery collection on the theme of Creation. Creation of the Tank ring. "Cartier, Splendours of Jewellery", a retrospective exhibition, was held at the Hermitage Foundation in Lausanne, Switzerland.
  • 1997 - Cartier celebrated its 150th anniversary with exceptional Fine Jewellery creations including a necklace in the form of a serpent, paved with diamonds and set with two pear-cut emeralds of 205 and 206 carats (41.2 g). The "Cartier 1900-1939" retrospective was held at the British Museum in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
  • 1998 - Creation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris Fine Watch collection.
  • 1999 - Creation of the Paris Nouvelle Vague Cartier jewellery collection, inspired by Paris. "The Art of Cartier, A splendor of Time" retrospective was held at the Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City with guest of honour the Mexican actress María Félix. The "Cartier 1900-1939" exhibition moved to the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago.[23][citation needed]
  • 2000 - Creation of a jewellery collection to take Cartier into the 21st century.
  • 2001 - Creation of the Délices de Cartier jewellery collection. Launch of the Roadster watch. Cartier displayed the ceremonial necklace made for the Maharajah of Patiala at the 21st Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris. The intersection of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street in New York is temporarily named "Place de Cartier" to celebrate restoration and reopening of the Cartier Mansion.[24]
  • 2002 - Creation of the Tank Divan watch. The "Cartier Design viewed by Sottsass" exhibition was shown at the Vitra Design Museum in Berlin and the Palazzo Reale in Milan. It would later travel to the Daigoji Temple in Kyoto and the Houston Museum of Fine Arts.
  • 2003 - Launch of the Le Baiser du Dragon and Les Délices de Goa jewellery collections. The Kimberley Process was implemented and Cartier immediately adopted measures to end trade in conflict diamonds.[citation needed] Cartier contributed to the "Jean Cocteau, Spanning the Century" exhibition at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris. Cartier opened a shop at 154, Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris. The intersection of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street in New York was officially named "Place de Cartier".[24]
  • 2004 - Marking the centenary of the Santos de Cartier watch, creation of the Santos 100, Santos Demoiselle and Santos-Dumont watches. Cartier presented "The Art of Cartier", a retrospective exhibition at the Shanghai Museum. Presentation of the Star of the South Diamond at the 22nd Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris.[citation needed]
  • 2005 - Creation of the Caresse d’Orchidées par Cartier Fine Jewellery collection. Creation of a bespoke perfume service at 13, rue de la Paix. Cartier co-founded the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices. Cartier became an active member of the [[Women's Forum]].[citation needed]
  • 2006 - Creation of the La Doña de Cartier watch. The first "Love Charity" international fundraising sale was held. Cartier presented a special award for female business entrepreneurs at the Women's Forum.[citation needed]
  • 2007 - Creation of the Inde Mystérieuse Fine Jewellery collection. Creation of the Ballon Bleu de Cartierwatch. The "Cartier 1899-1949, The Journey of a Style" exhibition was held at the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation Museum in Lisbon. The "Cartier, Innovation through the 20th Century" exhibition was held at the Kremlin Museum in Moscow.[citation needed]
  • 2008 - "The Art of Cartier" at the National Museum of art, Deoksugung, of Seoul Creation of the Ballon bleu watch.[citation needed]
  • 2009 - "Story of.... Memories of Cartier creation" exhibition, by Tokujin Yoshioka, at the Tokyo National Museum. Creation of the Santos 100 Skeletonwatch "Cartier Treasures- King of Jewellers, Jewellers to Kings" exhibition at the Palace Museum, Beijing. Creation of the "Secrets et Merveilles" Fine Jewellery collection "Cartier and America" exhibition at The Legion of Honor - Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.[citation needed]
  • 2011 - "Cartier TIME ART" exhibition art-directed by Tokujin Yoshioka. It was held at Museum Bellerive in Zurich 2011, and at Art Science Museum in Singapore in 2011-2012.
  • 2012 - Cartier announced the international release of its new "L'Odyssee de Cartier," a three-and-one-half minute film showing Cartier's 165-year history. The film, directed by Bruno Aveillan, was screened for the first time at a premiere hosted by Cartier at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York on 29 February 2012.[citation needed]

List of Managing Directors[edit]

  • Laurent E. Feniou - (25 March 2013 – present).[25]
  • Rupert J. Brooks - (16 December 2015 – present).[26]
  • Francois M. J. R. Le Troquer - (1 September 2010 - 28 March 2013).[27]
  • Bernard M. Fornas - (21 January 2003 - 16 December 2015).[28]
  • Guy J. Leymarie - (2 September 2002 - 28 October 2002).[29]
  • Grieg O. Catto - (2 April - present).[30]
  • Denys E. Pasche - (2 April 2002 - 17 July 2002).[31]
  • David W. Merriman - (2 April 2002 - 17 July 2002).[32]
  • Richard P. Lepeu - (1 November 2000 - 1 April 2002).[33]
  • Sophie Cagnard - (1 November 2000 - 1 April 2002).[34]
  • Gerard S. Djaoui - (12 June 1997 - 1 April 2002).[35]
  • Francois Meffre - (11 June 1993 - 28 September 2000).[36]
  • Richard N. Thornby - (11 June 1993 - 7 October 1996).[37]
  • Luigi Blank - (11 June 1993 - 1 April 2002).[38]
  • Joseph W. Allgood - (22 June 1992 - 8 April 1993).[39]
  • Arnaud M. Bamberger - (4 June 1992 - 16 December 2015).[40]
  • Mario Soares - (22 June 1991 - 5 March 2002).[41]
  • Joseph Kanoui - (22 June 1991 - 31 January 2000).[42]
  • William A. Craddock - (22 June 1991 - 31 October 1997).[43]
  • Christopher H. B. Honeyborne - (22 June 1991 - 31 October 1997).[44]
  • Pierre Haquet - (22 June 1991 - 8 April 1993).[45]
  • Phillipe Leopold-Metzger - (22 June 1991 - 4 June 1992).[46]

Website blocking[edit]

In October 2014 the first blocking order against trademark infringing consumer goods was passed against the major UK ISPs by Richemont, Cartier International and Montblanc to block several domains selling trademark infringing products.[47]

See also[edit]

  • Fondation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain
  • Cartier Women's Initiative Awards
  • Cartier Racing Awards
  • Cartier Tank watch
  • Cartier Love bracelet

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Cartier on the Forbes World's Most Valuable Brands List". 
  2. ^ Menkes, Suzy (2006-01-10). "A ball for the 'king of jewellers'". The New York Times. Retrieved 2012-03-14. 
  3. ^ Adams, Ariel. "Kate Middleton Wears Cartier Ballon Bleu Watch". Retrieved 2016-08-31. 
  4. ^ Prat, Véronique (2009-08-28). "Les joyaux de Cartier exposés dans la Cité interdite" [Cartier jewels set in the Forbidden City] (in French). Retrieved 2012-03-14. 
  5. ^ "Rock star". Time. 2004-09-14. Retrieved 2012-03-14. 
  6. ^ "Cartier through time - 1904". Archived from the original on 2012-01-10. Retrieved 2012-03-14. 
  7. ^ "Cartier - warrant, certificates, hallmarks". Archived from the original on 2012-01-24. Retrieved 2012-03-14. 
  8. ^ a b "Cartier - History". Archived from the original on 2007-10-16. Retrieved 2008-03-09. 
  9. ^ "History of the Pilot Watch Part I – Cartier Santos 1904". Retrieved 2014-10-01. 
  10. ^ "Cartier - The mystery clocks". Archived from the original on 2008-01-26. Retrieved 2008-03-09. 
  11. ^ "Roger Russell's Mystery Clock History Page". Retrieved 2008-03-09. 
  12. ^ Nadelhoffer, Hans (2007-10-18). Cartier. Chronicle Books. ISBN 9780811860994. 
  13. ^ Dunlap, David (2000-04-26). "Commercial Real Estate; Cartier Spruces Up to Show Off Its Jewels in Style". New York Times. Retrieved 2008-03-09. 
  14. ^ "Petit Palais Museum Website". Retrieved October 19, 2016. 
  15. ^ "Vendôme Luxury Group plc History". Funding Universe. Retrieved 2013-02-26. 
  16. ^ Alford, Holly Price; Stegemeyer, Anne (2014-09-25). Who's Who in Fashion. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN 9781609019693. 
  17. ^ Garcia, Cathy Rose A. (28 September 2008). "Cartier Opens Flagship Store in Cheongdam".

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      • Mens Tank Solo Watch, Extra Large Model W5200027

        • 3055,97 €
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        The modest, modern design of the Tank Solo watch made it a classic from the moment it first appeared in the Tank collection. The Tank Solo honors the unique aesthetic that lies behind the collection's success while reworking the model with a number of variations, adding gold, steel, a pink dial, and a panther or python motif. These highly accessible variations were rapturously received.

        Watch Movement:- Self-Winding Mechanical Movement with Calibre Cartier 049

        Dial Colour:- Silver Opaline Dial

        Crystal/Glass Type:- Sapphire Crystal Glass

        Case:- Stainless Steel

        Strap/Bracelet:-Black Alligator-Skin Strap

        Water Resistance:- 30 Meters 

        Model Reference Number:- W5200027

        Case Diameter:- 31 x 40.85 millimeters 

        Features:-

        Steel double adjustable deployment buckle

        Sword-shaped blued-steel hands

        Packaging:- Official Presentation Box

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  • Cartier Tank Watch – The Hallmark of Sophisticated Elegance

    The Cartier Tank watch is a marvel of fine watchmaking. Simplistic and elegant, it is the pinnacle of French watchmaking brought forth by the most prominent jeweler of the century.

    Rarely are jewelers capable of producing such a refined timepiece that critics and collectors revere. Cartier has managed to create one of the finest timepieces in history and arguably, one of the most iconic.

    Cartier Logo

    The Cartier Tank is unlike most luxury watches on the market. It is offered in a vast selection of styles and movements that enable it to be proffered at various price points capable of meeting almost every budget. The options seem virtually infinite as one can select from a range of precious metals, movements, complications and straps. Designed for the most elegant gentleman, it is, all things considered, a classic dress watch, capable of being paired harmoniously with everything from casual attire to black tie. A favorite timepiece amongst aristocrats, royalty and businessmen, the Tank’s prices range based on the collection, the model and the movement from just shy of a few thousand dollars, upwards of almost half a million.

    Unlike many of its competitors, the Cartier Tank shines as a well-regarded timepiece that meets the needs of men with limited and unlimited budgets.

    History of the Tank

    The Tank is a very historic timepiece that dates back to the early 1900s. Although there are many watchmakers that hung their shingle centuries ago, there are few that have continued to produce the same model for such a lengthy period.

    Louis Cartier designed the original Tank in the year 1917 as a gift for General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force two years before it hit the public marketplace. When creating the timepiece, Cartier drew inspiration from the Renault tanks that he saw on the Western Front. It was a novel creation because, unlike most timepieces of the day, it managed to seamlessly integrate the lugs into the vertical brancards of the casing. It was an instant classic due to its hard edges, crisp lines and clean aesthetic appeal.

    General John Pershing

    General John Pershing

    A year after presenting its prototype to General Pershing, Louis Cartier announced his newest timepiece and took it to market in early 1919 where a limited run of just six Tank watches were available for sale.

    The public interest grew and soon the Cartier Tank was the watch of royals. In 1921, Cartier introduced a second model called the Tank Cintrée which was the slimmest timepiece on the market with curves that were unheard of. By 1922, Cartier introduced yet another new model called the Tank Chinoise followed by the Tank Louis which proved to be equally popular. Not to be outdone by other watchmakers, Cartier introduced yet another collection in 1928 called the Tank a Guichets which was the first model without hands. Then came the odd Tank Obus one year later in mid-1929. In 1932, Cartier who often partnered with other experts including movement designers at LeCoultre created the Tank Basculante, which was designed in similar fashion to the JLC Reverso and intended for use while playing sports. More and more collections were born over the years with a significant new model called the Tank Américaine collection introduced in 1989. Then, in 1996, Cartier announced yet another pinnacle of the current collection, this time, called the Tank Française. Since then, new models have continued to grace the boutiques and stores that sell fine timepieces to the world’s most discerning gentlemen. Unlike most watches that have been around for significant periods of history, the Tank has managed to maintain its unique appearance with every model focusing on the key features that identify the unique timepiece.

    A Renault Tank that inspired the watch

    A Renault Tank that inspired the watch

    1. A Chemin de Fer chapter ring
    2. A square and rectangular shape
    3. Bold dials with Roman numerals
    4. A distinctly beautiful sapphire cabochon surmounted crown
    5. Blue steel hands shaped like swords

    Remarkably, with an astounding 45-models presently available in its six current collections, Cartier has managed to make all of them uniquely attractive and yet easily identifiable to even the untrained eye.

    Louis Cartier Tank

    Louis Cartier Tank

    Today, the Tank is sold around the world and has become one of the most renowned collector pieces amongst horology aficionados. Unlike many luxury timepieces, the watch is popular with all kinds of demographics including various royals, world leaders, military officers, celebrities, fashion designers and corporate tycoons.

    It is especially popular with the business community as well as the contemporary artist due to its clean lines and simplicity.

    Current Collections

    Currently, Cartier offers six collections of the Tank watch for a total of 45 individual models.

    Cartier Tank Anglaise

    Cartier Tank Anglaise

    Tank Anglaise

    The largest collection in the Cartier portfolio, the Tank Anglaise comes in seventeen different models, all of which are designed to the same principles in mind. The Anglaise is one of the most unique Tank collections because it offers a distinct variation of the features commonly found in the timepiece. It is a perfect recreation of the alignment of the very first Tank watch offered to the public in 1919. Using a winding mechanism that’s incorporated into the case, it is more concentrated than the other collections with a reinforced crispness to the lines of the watch and a more streamlined appearance overall. It is an artistic interpretation of the first Tank but with a contemporary twist that leaves you speechless in the very best of ways.

    Clear Image of the JLC Movement in a Cartier

    Clear Image of the JLC Movement in a Cartier

    Ranging in price from just $4850 for a small version made from steel, the base model is just as exquisite to the naked eye as any other. The reason they manage to get the price so low is due to the Cartier 057 quartz movement inside the case. Cartier is one of the few luxury watchmakers to offer quartz timepieces which opens the brand up to a much larger customer base and allows them to be attainable by almost everyone. Of course, the Anglaise collection only gets better as prices jump upwards of an astounding $168,000 for a large, 18-karat white gold model that’s paved with 112 brilliant-cut diamonds in the most simplistic fashion imaginable. Unlike other watches that are covered in diamonds, Cartier has managed to achieve the impossible and makes a timepiece that’s striking and yet somehow unpretentious.

    Cartier Tank Anglaise with Diamonds

    Cartier Tank Anglaise with Diamonds

    Between the lowest price and the highest, there is a significant range of 14 other watches in steel, yellow, pink and white gold that range in price from just over $6000 upwards of $128,000. Of course, there is also the pinnacle of the collection; the Riviera whose price is only available upon request and application.

    Click here to buy a Cartier Tank Anglaise moderately priced at $21,500. Or, click here to buy a lower priced Anglaise for just over $5700.

    Tank Louis Cartier

    A personal timepiece of the great Louis Cartier, his namesake watch is the standard by which all Tank models are set. Quintessentially art deco, it features rounded lugs as opposed to the vogue rectangular ones. It is a small, four model collection, ranging in price from $9850 to $58,500. Two of the models are classically inspired large and extra-large Tanks with the additional two models featuring skeleton cases allowing you to see the movement at work. The two lower priced models come in 18k yellow ($9850) and pink ($14,100) gold. The more expensive skeleton models are available in pink and white gold, respectively.

    Click here to get your own Tank Louis Cartier for just over $8,000.

    Cartier Tank Américaine

    Cartier Tank Américaine

    Tank Américaine

    Another four model collection, the Tank Américaine is known for its elongated case with a very striking curve that wraps around your wrist effortlessly. It’s a rather fun play on geometry that showcases the harmony between classic linear shapes and round edges.

    The four models range in price from just $13,200 to $16,800 with the lower priced watches available in pink ($13,200) and yellow ($15,800) gold. The higher priced models come in pink ($15,800) and white ($16,800) gold. All of the models feature a date aperture that is always a nice feature in any timepiece.

    Click here to get a Tank Américaine watch for yourself.

    Cartier Tank Française in gold and steel

    Cartier Tank Française in gold and steel

    Tank Française

    The Tank Française is a single model collection that brings a sportier and more modern appearance to a classically French timepiece. Featuring a yellow gold and steel chain-link bracelet instead of the more elegant leather straps, the Tank Française is a bolder statement that can be worn with business attire but should probably be reserved for a more casual outfit. Sticking to its more contemporary roots, the Française is a larger timepiece but is undeniably still a Tank.

    In case you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal, we just get a small commission.

    Click here to get a Tank Française in only stainless steel for just $3795.

    A very Masculine Tank MC

    A very Masculine Tank MC

    Tank MC

    The Tank MC is the second most extensive collection of thirteen different models that range in price from $6750 to $96,500.

    The MC line is Cartier’s most robust design with larger cases and a bold square shape. It’s the power watch of the Maison. What’s really wonderful about this collection, is that even the least expensive watch that is only a couple of thousand more than the quartz timepieces features a 1904-PS MC mechanical movement with automatic winding. For those with smaller budgets who can save a few thousand dollars and still want a luxury timepiece, this is the model we recommend. It is arguably more sporty than the iconic Tank watch with its calendar aperture at the 3 o’clock marker and a small second counter at 6 o’clock.

    Cartier Tank MC

    Cartier Tank MC

    As the prices rise, chronograph functions become available in the MC collection. It is one of the boldest collections with multiple options to select from and various colors, materials and complications. In fact, there is even a blue-dial model for $7000 and a chocolate brown version for $21,100.

    Click here to get a Cartier Tank MC in gold with a chronograph for $19,900.

    The classic Tank Solo

    The classic Tank Solo

    Tank Solo

    The Tank Solo is, by and large, the best entry level Cartier collection for a more modest budget. There are six models available in the collection and the prices begin at just $2550 making it one of the least expensive luxury watches in the world. Granted, it is a quartz movement that powers the timepiece, there are automatic movements in the same collection that range from just $3450 to $8200. For those looking to acquire an elegant timepiece on a small budget, this might be the very best option if you’re set on a Cartier.

    Click here to get an entry-level Cartier Tank Solo for just over $2100.

    Where to Buy a Tank

    There are many places one can purchase a Cartier Tank. In fact, they are almost as easy to procure as Rolex or Omega. There are really three types of places to buy new and vintage Tanks.

    1. Authorized Retailers
    2. Grey Market Retailers
    3. Private Sellers
    4. Online

    Authorized Retailers

    Cartier not only sells its collections on its official website, but it also has numerous boutiques around the world and continues to authorize third-party retailers to sell their jewellery and watches. Obviously, we recommend purchasing your new and vintage Tank from an authorized seller whether it be through Cartier directly or one of their representatives. By doing so, you can ensure you’re purchasing an authentic and working timepiece that will be covered under any applicable warranties. Since Cartier watches are priced very appropriately (for the most part) and are often one of the most counterfeited timepieces sold online, it goes without saying that if this is an investment purchase, you may want to pay the extra cost to ensure you don’t get taken advantage of after the deal is done.

    Clear Image of the JLC Movement in a Cartier

    Clear Image of the JLC Movement in a Cartier

    Grey Market Retailers

    A grey market retailer is any commercial seller that isn’t authorized by the brand to sell their product. The difference between grey market and the black market is simple: black market dealers are selling stolen products.

    There are two distinct benefits to purchase from a grey market dealer:

    1. You’ll end up saving money on the final purchase price.
    2. You can usually negotiate the price.

    Of course, with reward, there is a certain level of risk involved. These are just a few of the risks you want to keep in mind:

    1. Your watch will not be covered by manufacturer warranty. Any warrant you receive will be directly from the seller and is void if the vendor goes out of business.
    2. Your watch, although described as new-in-box, may actually be a previously worn timepiece that was repackaged.
    3. For the hundreds of grey market dealers there just a handful of notable ones. You really need to make sure that you do your homework, so you don’t end up with a counterfeit watch or a timepiece that isn’t in pristine condition.
    Cartier Tank in Black

    Cartier Tank in Black

    When it comes to grey market sellers, we highly recommend sticking with the various auction houses such as Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Antiquorum. Your next best bet will be well-reviewed jewellers followed by online stores. For the most part, the auction houses and reputable jewelry stores will only sell vintage and pre-owned watches.

    Private Sellers

    The third place to purchase a Cartier Tank is through a private seller. These can be individuals, sole proprietors, independent jewellers or estate managers. In many cases, these watches will be pre-owned. The benefit is that you can often find the best deal. The drawback is that it’s the riskiest way to purchase a watch.

    Most private sellers will sell these watches on consignment, in newspapers and circulars or online using websites such as eBay, Craigslist and watch forums.

    To learn more about how to buy a Cartier Tank on eBay, click here for our eBay buying guide.

    To learn how to purchase any vintage luxury watch in detail, click here.

    Tank on the Wrist

    Tank on the Wrist

    Online

    Reputable online platforms such as Amazon offer a 30 day no questions asked return policy. So you can order the watch, inspect it in person and take all the time you want without a sales person watching you, have it appraised and if something is wrong you can return it.

    How to Wear a Tank

    The Tank is a very versatile timepiece. Unlike most dress watches, the Tank is water-resistant which allows you to wear it in a more casual environment. Of course, it’s not a diving watch, so we don’t recommend exposing it to water on purpose.

    The standard rule of the Tank is to wear what it appears to match. If you have a Tank Française or a metal Tank Solo, it will work handsomely with casual wear and even sportswear. However, you can dress it up and pair it with a blazer or even a suit for the Solo with a leather strap.

    If you own a quintessential Tank dress watch made of yellow or pink gold with an alligator strap, we highly recommend reserving it as a dress watch and pairing it with business attire. Of course, the Tank is one of the few timepieces that some men argue can be worn with black tie. If you do decide to wear it with your dinner jacket or tuxedo, be sure that it’s an appropriate gold Tank watch and not a steel one. Furthermore, the higher priced diamond-cut Tanks should be reserved solely for appropriate occasions or as a collector piece that’s kept in the vault. Most watches that are emblazoned with diamonds are far too ostentatious for black tie or even business attire. Unless of course you work in the entertainment industry. However, the Tank, unlike many of the other diamond watches in existence, has managed to do a fairly superb job of minimizing its extravagance. Somehow, they’ve kept it somewhat simplistic in comparison to others, so it’s not necessarily a faux-pas to wear it out and about. We would just suggest you do what you feel is comfortable and appropriate for the occasion.

    Conclusion

    The Tank watch is a substantial investment in luxury timekeeping. It is one of the most iconic dress watches ever made and stays away from trends that eventually parish to remain sophisticated and elegant as the decades pass.

    Do you own a Cartier Tank? What’s your favorite model?

    Summary
    Article Name
    The Cartier Tank Watch Guide
    Description
    The ultimate guide to Cartier Tank wristwatches for men including history, how to buy and recommended watches.
    Author
    If you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal, we just get a small commission. Thank you!
    2 replies
    1. Roy Beasley says:

      I have a Cartier Tank in Stainless Steel, by far my favorite watch. I now wish I had one with a leather band, also.

    2. Greg says:

      What a stately looking watch line … would need to take out a mortgage to buy some of these pieces though!

    Comments are closed.





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